This is another problem that I’ve been trying off and on for a few years; it’s height and landing have kept me from full commitment for awhile. I never felt fully comfortable at the crux, perched on smears above a slab... This year, I noticed a tiny, scary to use foothold, punched into the high pocket and made for the crater over the lip...
This is another new addition to the growing list in Boulder Canyon: I think Authentic Battle Damage is a enough good name for it... I worked on this thing for three days before finally finishing it off, end of day, last ditch effort sundown style. I’ve whined before about how nice it would be to “pull it off, right at the end”, and this was it. I’m really psyched we found this one, it’s the kind of problem I’m always looking for, and it’s close to home. I can’t complain about the quality... And there’s a funky warm up right next to it, and no monsters in the BIG cave underneath...
jackie hueftle photo
jackie hueftle photo
jackie hueftle photo
Poudre developers and living legends Herman Feissner and Blake Rutherford found this line sometime last year, hiding, as Herm put it, “in plain sight”, right next to on of the most tried problems in the 420s. The Sharma Lunge boulder sits at the base of the hillside, on the edge of the 420s in an often sunny spot; one oughta get there before the awful sloper gets out of the shade. A gut-twister of a move gets you off the block and out to the arete, where two more tough slaps set you up for some devious footwork and a finicky heel that takes the climber to an undercling crimp; one more tough foot move and a gentle huck for a guppy jug at the lip and voila, rest in the shade of the little chinese water painting pine tree. I spent abut three days on this last year, and two this year, before finishing it up on the last day of April, just in time to beat the rains that’ll keep me behind the computer for the next couple of days... This is a short, but really nice boulder that would be at home anywhere in Ticino. Good granite, nice holds, and interesting, technical moves.
“What’s Left of the Bottom of My Heart”,
suggesting 8b...
